After patiently waiting for some tube. The first piece to become available is some 1 1/4″ cds tube so I will make an axle from this and then once proven make another from stainless. Plan is eventually I will make everything twice so the chassis parts for the next one are already there and also a spare parts pile.
My initial idea of 1/4 ellipticals might end up like this….
To make the drop in the tube I will use these ready formed pieces available from all good engineering stores!!
These will be welded together by my friendly neighbourhood welder who assures me the joint will be as strong as the parent metal. This is because the ends of the tubes will be sealed and the tube purged with an inert gas (pureshield) to avoid impurities.
If in doubt call in the experts.
This will be easier than attempting to form identical double bends on each end of the pipe with a press and formers. The last axle I had dropped for my old 32 was an old I-Beam that was heated and stretched in a pre set jig.
Kingpin bosses will be welded to the axle ends and they will have. bronze bushes. I might attempt to add camber to the spindles when they are welded to their c section mounts that then attach to the kingpin bosses on the axle by use of the kingpin.
More as it happens, this weeks diary is pretty full!!
After agonising over the purist Cyclekart v my own thoughts it became clear whilst this kart might look from a distance like a Cyclekart it will be built to be fast, sturdy and safe. It will have a roll bar, dual discs, kill switch and sealed petrol tank. I want to be able to thrash it to an inch of its life and laugh as I do it.
Due to the HP and torque of the motor from the bike it should be able to handle a slightly heavier frame. I only weigh 72kg wet! so there’s lots to play with.
The steel is here for the rear axle and I’m looking at a dual square wheelbase of 36″ track and 72″ wheelbase. T x 2= wheelbase. The driver and engine will be low slung and use of the heavy Houdailles on the front end assy plus the tube axle, grille and radiator will hopefully balance out to give equal handling. All axles will be sprung and damped so this is going to be quite ambitious but do-able!!
Hubs now assembled time to work on the front and rear axles. The rear axle will be 30mm dia with 25mm dia ends to suit the bearings. One side will of course be locked. I will have to make a hub to hold the honda drive sprocket to keep the gearing right. Time is running out for the front tube axle. I have found some cds seamless tube that will do for a test axle and then I will have to but some stainless!! At least I will have a spare axle.
Welded up other side hub support ring.
More pics tomorrow
Got a few bits welded together today. Still on the hunt for some pipe to use for the front axle so concentrating on the rear. The bearing bosses were welded onto the hub plate on the supporting side. The other side will be welded later this week.
On the inner side I will weld some M10 hex sets that I have machined to sit in the pre cut holes on the PCD
Some nice lines on the Remington speedster!!
So after nearly 4 years mo old roadster re appears with an attitude! a nice new set of coat and shoes, nice new leather lining and top quality hints of polished hand crafted aluminium. Great job fella I’m in love with her all over again!
Seems I’m not doing it right!! So here’s the dust covers for the front bearings and next week the two parts of the stiffening hub will be welded together and the rear floating wheel hub. Hopefully we can then start on some comfortable driving dimensions and scale a chassis to suit.
Still liking this car 😉